When we check the WeighMyRack database for the most wanted and owned carabiners by WeighMyRack users we find the top 3 models in each category are…

Most Wanted Carabiners

  1. Edelrid 19G
  2. CAMP Nano 22
  3. Grivel Plume NUT K3N

Most Owned Carabiners (available today)

  1. Petzl Attache (screwgate)
  2. CAMP Nano 22
  3. Black Diamond Gridlock Screwgate

Note: Black Diamonds previous carabiner line still shows up as the most owned carabiners by WeighMyRack users. Unfortunately, Black Diamond retired nearly all their carabiners in 2019 and replaced them in 2020. The now retired Black Diamond Positron (screwgate) and the Black Diamond Rocklock (screwgate) still are the #1 and #2 most owned carabiners for WeighMyRack users. After the Petzl Attache and CAMP Nano 22, there are numerous more retired BD models (lockers and non-lockers) before the Gridlock Screwgate shows up on the most wanted list.

Below we dive into why these are the most wanted and owned carabiners from WeighMyRack users.

Edelrid 19G – #1 Most Wanted

At 19 grams this is THE lightest carabiner made for climbing and has been since it came out in 2013. As this is the first carabiner you see when you go to the WeighMyRack carabiner page and it’s the lightest it is easily put on the wanted list. It’s also one of the more expensive wire gate carabiners, so it’s certainly on the wanted list more often than the owned list.

When we first picked up the 19G we thought WOAH, this is small. It definitely takes time to get used to the small size. One of Edelrid’s lead researcher and designers, Daniel Gabel, shared that the first time he showed this carabiner to his experienced climber friends they would say, “No way, it’s too small,” and they didn’t want to climb on it, at first. Even when Daniel talks about this carabiner, he stresses that it is not designed as an everyday, every person carabiner. It’s designed to be the lightest still usable size for when weight absolutely counts.

We made a video when the 19G was first released, with Daniel describing the nuances of this carabiner:

Where to buy the Edelrid 19G

CAMP Nano 22 – #1 Most Wanted (and #2 Most Owned )

Wow. Where to begin. The Nano 22 is a phenomenal carabiner for trad climbers (when racking cams and on alpine draws) and has been since it was released years ago in 2016 when we wrote our first review of it.

Coming in at 22 grams makes it the second lightest carabiner so it is nearly the lightest on the market, while having a significant size difference (in a good way) to the 19G and other compact carabiners.

Nano 22 vs Nineteen G vs FS Mini II 1
Size comparison: Edelrid Nineteen G (left), CAMP Nano 22 (center), and Metolius FS Mini II (right).

The price is incredibly competitive at $6.95, there are barely any cheaper carabiners. The gate action is very smooth. Compared to all the carabers that are less than 25 grams, the Nano 22 is the most generous size and easily usable.

Racking carabiner size comparison
Racking carabiner size comparison

Whether you use this carabiner for racking cams (an A+ experience) or on light alpine draws (pairing with another Nano 22 or with the larger CAMP Photon is a great option), you can’t go wrong with the Nano 22. The nose angle is ideal with a beautifully smooth arc which basically prevents snagging despite it not having a keylock nose.

If you sport climb, there are beefier carabiner options for quickdraws that will hold up better over time to repeated falls. Since the Nano 22 is a compact carabiner, there are also easier to handle full size carabiner options for hard sport climbing or winter gloved climbing. (You can see and compare every carabiner there is on weighmyrack.com/carabiner)

Stats Note: The Nano 22 carabiner also comes in at the 4th most owned carabiner of all time and is the #1 most owned wire gate carabiner of WeighMyRack users. You’ll see the Nano 22 listed as the 2nd most owned in this post as it’s the 2nd most owned currently available carabiner.

Buying Options for the CAMP Nano 22

Grivel Plume NUT K3N – #3 Most Wanted

Grivel Plume Nut K3N

Weighing in at 37 grams this is THE lightest locking carabiner on the market so there is no doubt why it’s on the list. Grivel has a number of Plume options and they are a pleasant size for such a light design.

The Plume NUT K3N is a great lightweight option although it’s to be noted that only one rope strand really fits will in it, so it’s great for a personal anchor carabiner but it’s not as ideal for a shared anchor masterpoint or for multiple strands of ropes.

Since it is a compact carabiner, it is NOT an ideal belay carabiner (unless you’re pairing with a mechanical brake assist belay device like the Mad Rock Lifeguard) as it does not have a round radius on top for the rope to run smoothly over.

Buying Options for the Grivel Plume NUT K3N

You can buy the Grivel Plume NUT K3N from Grivel’s website directly (shipping to many countries, including the US).

Petzl Attache – #1 Most Owned

The Petzl Attache is the #1 most owned currently available carabiner. The #1 most owned carabiner ever is the now retired Black Diamond Positron (screwgate).

Petzl Attache

Petzl (along with Black Diamond) is one of the most readily available carabiner brands. The Attache has been Petzl’s go-to belay locking carabiner for years. It is much loved and touted with a 5.8 stars on WeighMyRack (out of 6, with 6 being the most amazing piece of gear ever).

Most folks love the HMS shape as it is a great belay shape as well as a great anchor building carabiner. It easily fits 2 clove hitches, is fairly light weight, and features a red mark on the gate as a warning if it’s closed correctly.

Buying Options for the Petzl Attache

CAMP Nano 22 – #2 Most Owned

The Nano 22 is the #2 most owned currently available. The #2 most owned carabiner ever is the now retired Black Diamond Rocklock (screwgate).

Not much more we can say that we didn’t say above in the #2 Most Wanted area. The Nano 22 is hands down one of the best racking carabiners in terms of functionality, price, and weight for a trad or alpine climber.

The only time the Nano 22 isn’t a great pick is if you’re looking for a beefy sport draw option or are looking for a locking carabiner. Or, if you would prefer a full-size carabiner vs a compact carabiner, then the Nano 22 is not ideal.

Buying Options for the CAMP Nano 22

Black Diamond Gridlock Screwgate – #3 Most Owned (currently available)

Black Diamond Gridlock

The Black Diamond Gridlock is widely available at most gear shops and is by far the most owned carabiner with the belay keeper feature. This extra gate, or in the case of the Gridlock, an extension of the existing gate, prevents the carabiner from rotating and cross-loading. (Cross-loading: where the carabiner is weighted side to side instead of top to bottom, a significantly weaker orientation.) This feature is particularly helpful in a belay setting, where the rope can go from loaded to unloaded regularly and keeping the belay carabiner correctly oriented can be more of an issue.

The unique gate design of the Gridlock does take a bit of getting used to when you’re clipping it into your harness (or an anchor, etc): You have to remember to pass your belay loop through the belay gate area before you lock the carabiner. If you forget, you’ll have to unlock the carabiner, pass it through, and then re-lock the carabiner. Other designs have a belay gate that operates independently that can be more convenient, as you can pass your belay loop through the belay gate whether the main carabiner gate is locked or not.

The Black Diamond Gridlock in action
The unique one-piece design of the keeper gate on the Gridlock means a bit of an extra step to make sure the carabiner sits correctly on your belay loop. This also means that it is extremely secure as it cannot come off without unlocking and opening the carabiner.

The Gridlock is good for belaying with a Petzl GriGri or Mad Rock Lifeguard or other mechanical brake assist devices.

It is also a great belay carabiner for tube style belay devices and brake assisted tubes like the ATC Pilot or the Mammut Smart 2.0 since it has a round, smooth radius for the rope to move over.

Buying Options for the Black Diamond Gridlock Screwlock

Bottom Line

The most wanted carabiners tend to be light and/or expensive carabiners. The most owned carabiners tend to be carabiners that are easy to find at most climbing shops. Black Diamond would dominate the most owned list if they had not completely changed their carabiner lineup in 2020.

It’s very interesting (but not surprising) that the CAMP Nano 22 is seen in both the most owned and most wanted list as many WeighMyRack users are trad climbers.

To Find The Best Carabiner

We recommend trying out the carabiners your climbing partners and visiting as many gear shops and handling as many carabiners as possible. Often, you will know ‘the one’ after you test it, it’ll either fit in your hand really well, or somehow just make life easier.

Want to See All The Carabiners (over 1000)?

At WeighMyRack, we list every carabiner and give you filters for shape, gate type, gate opening, price, weight, brand, and features like visual warning, keylock, available in a rack pack, or if it has a belay keeper. You can also filter by on sale carabiners with discounts >20%.