When we check the WeighMyRack database for the most wanted and owned carabiners by WeighMyRack users we find the top 3 models in each category are…

Most Wanted Carabiners

  1. Edelrid 19G
  2. CAMP Nano 22
  3. Grivel Plume NUT K3N

Most Owned Carabiners (available today)

  1. Petzl Attache (screwgate)
  2. CAMP Nano 22
  3. Petzl Spirit Screwlock

Note: Black Diamonds previous carabiner line still shows up as the most owned carabiners by WeighMyRack users. Unfortunately, Black Diamond retired nearly all their carabiners in 2019 and replaced them in 2020. The now retired Black Diamond Positron (screwgate) and the Black Diamond Rocklock (screwgate) still are the #1 and #2 most owned carabiners for WeighMyRack users. After the Petzl Attache and CAMP Nano 22, there are numerous more retired BD models (lockers and non-lockers) before the Petzl Spirit Screwlock shows up on the most wanted list.

Below we dive into why these are the most wanted and owned carabiners from WeighMyRack users.

Edelrid 19G – #1 Most Wanted

At 19 grams this is THE lightest carabiner made for climbing and has been for the last 8 years. As this is the first carabiner you see when you go to the WeighMyRack carabiner page and it’s the lightest it is easily put on the wanted list. It’s also one of the more expensive wire gate carabiners, so it’s certainly on the wanted list more often than the owned list.

When we first picked up the 19G we thought WOAH, this is small. It does take some getting used to. One of Edelrid’s lead researcher and designers, Daniel Gabel, shared that the first time he showed this carabiner to his friends they would say, “No way, it’s too small.” They didn’t want to climb on it, until Daniel said it would be the only rack he’d carry and he touted the math of how much lighter the 19G carabiner makes a rack. Even when Daniel talks about this carabiner, he stresses that it is not an everyday, every person carabiner. It’s designed to be the lightest for when weight absolutely counts.

We made a video when the 19G was first released, with Daniel describing the nuances of this carabiner:

As an aside, although the WeighMyRack team appreciates the leaps and bounds Edelrid has taken in terms of weight savings, we find the second most wanted carabiner, the CAMP Nano 22, to be more of a go-to carabiner on our standard rack vs our ultimate weight savings rack.

Where to buy the Edelrid 19G

CAMP Nano 22 – #1 Most Wanted (and #2 Most Owned )

Wow. Where to begin. The Nano 22 is a phenomenal carabiner for trad climbers (when racking cams and on alpine draws) and has been since it was released 7 years ago when we wrote our first review of it.

Coming in at 22 grams makes it the second lightest carabiner so it is nearly the lightest on the market, while having a significant size difference (in a good way) to the 19G and other compact carabiners.

Nano 22 vs Nineteen G vs FS Mini II 1
Size comparison: Edelrid Nineteen G (left), CAMP Nano 22 (center), and Metolius FS Mini II (right).

The price is incredibly competitive at $6.95, there are barely any carabiners cheaper. The gate action is very smooth. The size, compared to all carabiners < 25 grams, is the most generous and easily usable.

Racking carabiner size comparison
Racking carabiner size comparison

Whether you use this carabiner for racking cams (an A+ experience) or on light alpine draws (pairing with another Nano 22 or with the larger CAMP Photon is a great option), you can’t go wrong with this carabiner. The nose angle is ideal with a beautifully smooth arc which basically prevents snagging despite it not having a keylock nose.

If you sport climb, there are beefier carabiner options for quickdraws that will hold up better over time to repeated falls. Since the Nano 22 is a compact carabiner, there are easier to handle full size carabiner options for hard sport climbing or winter gloved climbing. (You can see every carabiner available on weighmyrack.com/carabiner)

Note: The Nano 22 carabiner also comes in at the 4th most owned carabiner of all time and is the #1 most owned wire gate carabiner of WeighMyRack users. You’ll see the Nano 22 listed as the 2nd most owned in this post as it’s the 2nd most owned currently available carabiner.

Buying Options for the CAMP Nano 22

Grivel Plume NUT K3N – #3 Most Wanted

Weighing at 37 grams this is THE lightest locking carabiner on the market so there is no doubt why it’s on the list. Grivel has a number of Plume options and they are a pleasant size for such a light design.

The Plume NUT K3N is a great lightweight option although it’s to be noted that only one rope really fits will in it, so it’s great for a personal anchor carabiner but not as ideal for a shared anchor masterpoint for multiple ropes.

Since it is a compact carabiner, it is NOT an ideal belay carabiner (unless you’re pairing with say the Mad Rock Lifeguard) as it does not have a round radius on top for the rope to run smoothly over.

Buying Options for the Grivel Plume NUT K3N

You can buy the Grivel Plume NUT K3N from Grivel’s website directly (shipping to many countries, including the US).

Petzl Attache – #1 Most Owned

The Petzl Attache is the #1 most owned currently available carabiner. The #1 most owned carabiner ever is the now retired Black Diamond Positron (screwgate).

Petzl (along with Black Diamond) is one of the most readily available carabiner brands. The Attache has been Petzl’s go-to belay locking carabiner for years. It is much loved and touted with a 5.8 stars on WeighMyRack (out of 6, with 6 being the most amazing piece of gear ever).

Most folks love the HMS shape as it is a great belay shape as well as a great anchor building carabiner. It easily fits 2 clove hitches, is fairly light weight, and is one of the few carabiners to feature a red mark on the gate as a warning if it’s closed correctly.

Buying Options for the Petzl Attache

CAMP Nano 22 – #2 Most Owned

The Nano 22 is the #2 most owned currently available. The #2 most owned carabiner ever is the now retired Black Diamond Rocklock (screwgate).

Not much more we can say that we didn’t say above in the #2 Most Wanted area. The Nano 22 is hands down one of the best racking carabiners in terms of functionality, price, and weight for a trad or alpine climber.

The only time the Nano 22 isn’t a great pick is if you’re looking for a beefy sport draw option or are looking for a locking carabiner. Or, if you would prefer a full-size carabiner vs a compact carabiner, then the Nano 22 is not ideal.

Buying Options for the CAMP Nano 22

Petzl Spirit Screw Lock – #3 Most Owned (currently available)

The Petzl Spirit lock body is based on the super popular non-locking Petzl Spirit shape. It is readily available in nearly every climbing shop.

It’s great for belay stations as a personal anchor carabiner as it’s fairly light (45 grams) and compact. Similar to the Most Owned Attache above, it also has a red mark warning sign to show if it’s not locked.

Similar to the Most Wanted Plume above, the Spirit Screw Lock is great for belaying with a GriGri or Mad Rock Lifeguard or other mechanical brake assist devices. It is NOT a good belay carabiner for tube style belay devices since it doesn’t have a smooth rope radius (Pear/HMS shaped carabiners are much better). Similarly, this carabiner is not ideal for most tube brake assist devices like Mammut Smart 2.0, Black Diamond ATC Pilot, and Edelrid Jul² which require a flatter, wider carabiner radius to brake correctly.

The Spirit also cannot fit multiple ropes to clove hitch into, so it’s not a generous anchor carabiner.

The whole Petzl Spirit line sits on the higher end of the price scale, as most Petzl products.

Buying Options for the Petzl Spirit Screw Lock

Bottom Line

The most wanted carabiners tend to be light and/or expensive carabiners. The most owned carabiners tend to be carabiners that are easy to find at most climbing shops. Black Diamond would dominate the most owned list if they had not completely changed their carabiner lineup in 2020.

It’s very interesting (but not surprising) that the CAMP Nano 22 is seen in both the most owned and most wanted list as many WeighMyRack users are trad climbers.

Want to See All The Carabiners (over 1000)?

At WeighMyRack, we list every carabiner and give you filters for shape, gate type, gate opening, price, weight, brand, and features like visual warning, keylock, available in a rack pack, or if it has a belay keeper. You can also filter by on sale carabiners with discounts >20%.