Similar to next seasons carabiners, the trends in belay devices are definitely around safety. An increasing number of accidents both indoors and outdoors are prompting manufacturers to find ways to reduce, if not eliminate, these problems. There’s no doubt in my mind that we’ll continue to see (now that Petzl’s GriGri patent has expired) many more brands developing their own take on auto assisted-braking devices.

This coming season you’ll also notice a new crop of single-strand tubular devices including the first brake-assisted single-strand tubers. These will primarily be geared towards the growing number of gym climbers.

Here’s the newest belay devices we saw at the US Outdoor Retailer trade show:

CAMP, Matic

New auto-assist braking device

CAMP Matic Brake Assist Belay Device

  • Low impact force on the rope when catching a fall
  • Anti-panic system to prevent accidental dropping
  • Internal parts are steel for added durability

DMM, Pivot

New guide-style belay device

DMM Pivot Belay Device

  • Offers a controlled lower of a second in guide mode (without a prusik backup)
  • Teeth offer optimized control for ropes 8mm to 10.5mm (though its rated for 7.5-11mm)
  • 72 grams (puts it between Petzl’s Reverso 3 and Reverso 4 weights)

DMM, Mantis

New tube-style belay device with teeth

DMM Mantis Belay Device

  • The lightest tube-style belay device that has teeth, at 45 grams
  • Slimmed down version of the Pivot (it’s a Pivot without guide mode)
  • Accommodates 7.5mm – 11mm rope diameters

DMM, Grip

New single strand tubular device

DMM Grip Belay Device

  • During a fall, the device splits in half and the bottom portion pinches the rope to provide additional friction
  • Magnets snap the device back together when you’re ready to belay normally
  • 7 years in the making, it accommodates ropes diameters 8.6mm – 11mm

Edelrid, Jul 2

Upgraded single strand tubular device with a similar concept of the Mega Jul

Edelrid Jul2 Belay Device

  • Created with gym climbers in mind
  • Designed to handle old, fuzzy, and thicker ropes
  • Assisted-brake design uniquely reduces the braking force, enabling a softer catch

 

Edelrid’s Jul belay device models that are currently available:

[apwizard]+Edelrid +Jul -kilo,10,,,,50,- [/apwizard]

 

Not in the video above, but also showcased at US Outdoor Retailer:

Grivel, Master Mono

New single strand tubular device

Grivel Master Mono Belay Device

 

  • A single rope belay device that can be also used in guide mode
  • The inner holes allow for heat dissipation and make it lightweight
  • Accommodates ropes from 7.3 to 11 mm, with teeth for more holding power

 

Don’t want to wait until the year 2015 to get a belay device?
Compare every belay device currently on the market at: www.WeighMyRack.com/belay
Share
Alison Dennis

Alison Dennis

Alison (she/her) runs WeighMyRack from her 17' travel trailer. She is currently touring the US and would love if you contacted her to meet up to talk about climbing, climbing gear, or if you have any fun and/or ridiculous adventure in mind.

All author posts