Similar to next seasons carabiners, the trends in belay devices are definitely around safety. An increasing number of accidents both indoors and outdoors are prompting manufacturers to find ways to reduce, if not eliminate, these problems. There’s no doubt in my mind that we’ll continue to see (now that Petzl’s GriGri patent has expired) many more brands developing their own take on auto assisted-braking devices.
This coming season you’ll also notice a new crop of single-strand tubular devices including the first brake-assisted single-strand tubers. These will primarily be geared towards the growing number of gym climbers.
Here’s the newest belay devices we saw at the US Outdoor Retailer trade show:
CAMP, Matic
New auto-assist braking device
- Low impact force on the rope when catching a fall
- Anti-panic system to prevent accidental dropping
- Internal parts are steel for added durability
DMM, Pivot
New guide-style belay device
- Offers a controlled lower of a second in guide mode (without a prusik backup)
- Teeth offer optimized control for ropes 8mm to 10.5mm (though its rated for 7.5-11mm)
- 72 grams (puts it between Petzl’s Reverso 3 and Reverso 4 weights)
DMM, Mantis
New tube-style belay device with teeth
- The lightest tube-style belay device that has teeth, at 45 grams
- Slimmed down version of the Pivot (it’s a Pivot without guide mode)
- Accommodates 7.5mm – 11mm rope diameters
DMM, Grip
New single strand tubular device
- During a fall, the device splits in half and the bottom portion pinches the rope to provide additional friction
- Magnets snap the device back together when you’re ready to belay normally
- 7 years in the making, it accommodates ropes diameters 8.6mm – 11mm
Edelrid, Jul 2
Upgraded single strand tubular device with a similar concept of the Mega Jul
- Created with gym climbers in mind
- Designed to handle old, fuzzy, and thicker ropes
- Assisted-brake design uniquely reduces the braking force, enabling a softer catch
Edelrid’s Jul belay device models that are currently available:
[apwizard]+Edelrid +Jul -kilo,10,,,,50,- [/apwizard]
Not in the video above, but also showcased at US Outdoor Retailer:
Grivel, Master Mono
New single strand tubular device
- A single rope belay device that can be also used in guide mode
- The inner holes allow for heat dissipation and make it lightweight
- Accommodates ropes from 7.3 to 11 mm, with teeth for more holding power
Don’t want to wait until the year 2015 to get a belay device?
Compare every belay device currently on the market at: www.WeighMyRack.com/belay
Share
Alison Dennis
Alison (she/her) runs WeighMyRack from her 17' travel trailer. She is currently touring the US and would love if you contacted her to meet up to talk about climbing, climbing gear, or if you have any fun and/or ridiculous adventure in mind.
your newsletter will NOT accept my email address!
Why not?
steven_thaw@yahoo.com
That is just plain ridiculous! I’ve made sure you’re on the list, and I’m looking into why you were thwarted from the newsletter in the first place! Thanks for the heads up Steven.
[…] for the climber as compared to every other brake-assist device on the market (exception: CAMP’s new Matic belay device). This also means it’s a great device for your new climbing friends, who have yet to learn […]
[…] The DMM Pivot won’t be available until Spring/Summer of 2015 — and if you’re curious what other belay devices will be debuting this year, check out our post on all the new belay devices coming in 2015. […]