In the past few years there have been a lot of new belay carabiners coming onto the market. Most of the new technology has been focused on preventing accidental cross-loading during the belay. DMM has come up with a pleasantly simple way to prevent the carabiner from rotating when using devices like a GriGri or pulley. Chris Rowlands from DMM told us all about their Rhino belay carabiner at Outdoor Retailer.
Watch the video above or check it out on Vimeo or YouTube. Or subscribe to our Vimeo and YouTube channels to see more videos.
The excitement for this carabiner actually comes from what it lacks. There’s no extra wires or metal or plastic to complicate the belaying experience for any level of climber. The carabiner looks pretty much like most large (belay) biners with a few subtle but profound differences.
As the Rhino name implies, it is super strong, and it has a horn. The horn prevents mechanical devices from rotating on the carabiner causing cross-loading, creating an elegant solution for use with brake-assist devices like the GriGri. The horn adds no hinderance when using an ATC style device so this could be your go-to belay biner if you use both types of devices. Note: If you’re looking to ensure no cross-loading while using your ATC, then you’ll have to look elsewhere.
DMM made the smart decision to hot-forge this baby so they could take weight away from the spine and transfer that material to make the top of the carabiner super strong and rope friendly. Where the rope runs you’ll find fat round stock, that will help prevent kinking and make it easier to take in or pay out rope. The other main stress point, where the carabiner contacts the harness has a specialized shape to sit properly in the belay loop, a great feature for a belay specific carabiner.
As with most lockers, you can get a few different gate styles: a screw gate, dual auto-locking (DMM’s name: quicklock), and triple auto-locking (DMM’s name: locksafe).
As of November 1st, 2013, the Rhino hasn’t hit US stores yet, but if you need a new belay biner now, check out WeighMyRack’s carabiner page to narrow your choices from over 500 different carabiners on the market.
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Alison Dennis
Alison (she/her) runs WeighMyRack from her 17' travel trailer. She is currently touring the US and would love if you contacted her to meet up to talk about climbing, climbing gear, or if you have any fun and/or ridiculous adventure in mind.
This seems like an awesome carabiner, and I am definitely buying one, but I am not sure if they can claim that it entirely protects against cross loading. It seems like the carabiner could still rotate so that the horn falls into your belay rappel loop causing the rope and the device to be cross loaded over the gate of the carabiner. Any questions about that yet?
Like I said though– I am definitely a fan of this carabiner. I hate the ones with wires/bars to prevent the cross loading. They just aren’t versatile enough for me…but they serve their purpose well!
Hey Kelly,
You’re totally right, the Rhino horn doesn’t ensure cross-loading protection when using with a standard tube belay device, the carabiner could still rotate.
It definitely protects against cross-loading for mechanical devices (like a gri-gri and pulley) as the carabiner hole on the device isn’t big enough to wrap around the horn.
Maybe they’ll come out with “Tusk” in the future, that has an elephant-like horn that can prevent all possible cross-loading : )
Does the Rhino in fact prevent a Gri-gri from moving down on the spine? Is the horn big enough?
Hey Mark,
Yes, the Rhino was specifically designed with the Petzl GriGri in mind. The horn will prevent break-assisted devices like the GriGri and Cinch from moving down the spine.
It’s not guaranteed to work for all pulleys, but it will prevent many of them from rotating. DMM made a short video showing some pulleys that resist going past the horn, and a longer video talking about all the design nuances of the Rhino. Check them out on Vimeo:
(one minute)
(3 minutes). Unfortunately, there’s no GriGri action in any of the videos.
Sweet! I’m all over it!
[…] you haven’t checked out the DMM Rhino carabiner yet, this would be a great time to do so. DMM is including it in a belay package along with the […]