In 2020 DMM is releasing a set of Halfnuts and is coming out with a locking carabiner called the Shadow.
DMM Halfnuts – Passive Climbing Protection
DMM took the classic DMM Wallnut profile and essentially chopped it in half lengthwise. The Halfnuts will come in 7 sizes and will be great for providing a more stable placement in shallow cracks and fissures.DMM kept the wide taper that helps it kind of cam into the rock and allows it to fit well into pin scars and tapering cracks.
The weight is 38% lighter than the equivalent sizes of Wallnuts (you can compare these stats to every nut there is on WeighMyRack). The strength ratings will be 4kN for the two smallest sizes and 6kN for the 5 larger sizes.
The Halfnuts will be available in January 2020 in the US and will retail for $99.95 for the full set, and $15.95 (#1-3) and $16.95 (#4-7) per nut.
Shop CampSaver All Prices & ShopsYou can read more details about how this nut was created in this Halfnuts post.
DMM Shadow – A Locking Carabiner
The DMM Shadow is meant as a “general purpose” HMS carabiner which means it can be used for for munter hitches, belaying, anchors, or rigging. It has a short gate for a relatively big carabiner, which means it has a very large basket for rigging multiple ropes. The Shadow will fit 3 clove hitches with a 9.5mm rope, and the gate will still open.
The nuances are: Smooth rope bearing radiases, an I-beam frame to reduce weight but maintain strength, keylock nose. The thimble for this carabiner (and all of DMM’s carabiners), are really grippy without being sharp, and, perhaps most importantly, it’s not possible to overtighten the gate (there’s a special lip that stops the gate before it can overtighten).
Stats: It’s 70 grams, 27kN major axis rating, 9kN minor axis (cross gate), 7kN gate open. Gate opening is 20mm.
Available Jan 2020, as a screwgate, two stage autolocker (Locksafe) and 3-stage autolocker (Kwiklock). As available in red, blue, and green, for color-coding and/or guiding clients.
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