DMM took the classic DMM Wallnut profile and essentially chopped it in half lengthwise. The Halfnuts will come in 7 sizes and will be great for providing a more stable placement in shallow cracks and fissures. DMM kept the wide tapered wall of the Wallnut that helps it kind of cam into the rock and allows it to fit well into pin scars and tapering cracks.

DMM Halfnuts – Passive Climbing Protection

DMM Halfnuts (half a Wallnut) Coming in 2020 1

The weight of the Halfnut is 38% lighter than the equivalent sizes of Wallnuts. The weight savings comes from the halved nut and the fact that each nut utilizes a single strand of stainless steel wire (versus a looped wire). The strength ratings will be 4kN for the two smallest sizes and 6kN for the 5 larger sizes.

Black Sheep Adventure Sports got a great shot comparing the new 2020 Halfnut to the classic Wallnut:

DMM Wallnut compared to Halfnut
Wallnut on the left, Halfnut on the right. Photo credit to Black Sheep Adventure Sports.

 

These Halfnuts are made on a CNC machine, not as an extrusion. Another point that isn’t outwardly noticeable, but is kinda crazy, is that the hole in the head of the nut is not drilled straight down — that couldn’t work due to the tapered shape. If it was drilled straight down the thickness of the walls would be too thin in spots. Instead, DMM drills a hole from the top and from the bottom of the nut head, at different angles. This keeps a proper wall thickness throughout the nut head. Coincidentally, this angle difference also helps the wire stay snugly in place.

DMM Halfnut Side

When you look at the top of the Halfnuts, it kind of looks like the wire is just glued in and could pull out. Not possible. Once the wire is put through the bent tunnel drilled through the head of the nut, there is a cap piece that is added which is silver soldered to create a solid connection. Then a strong resin (glue) is also applied to help the wire stay put in the nut. The weakest point is the wire itself, not any of the connections.

DMM Halfnuts (half a Wallnut) Coming in 2020 2

The Halfnuts will be available in January 2020 in the US and will retail for $99.95 for the full set, and $15.95 (#1-3) and $16.95 (#4-7) per nut.

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In the meantime, you can see where to find the full version of Wallnuts below. Or you can compare these stats to every nut there is on WeighMyRack.

[apwizard]+DMM +Wallnuts | +DMM +Halfnuts,100,,,,,- [/apwizard]
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Alison Dennis

Alison Dennis

Alison (she/her) runs WeighMyRack from her 17' travel trailer. She is currently touring the US and would love if you contacted her to meet up to talk about climbing, climbing gear, or if you have any fun and/or ridiculous adventure in mind.

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