Mammut Smart 2.0 - With More Braking Power

Mammut was one of the early companies to come out with a belay device that had semi-automatic braking power without moving parts (like the GriGri). The first version of the Smart came out in 2009.

Smart 2.0 Updates

• Improved braking — faster braking along with complete blocking from rope movement
• Softer more ergonomic grip
• New geometry for easier handling of the device (unlocking the rope from the locked mode, etc).
• At 80 grams, it’s 2 grams lighter than the Smart

You can now count on the Smart 2.0 to lock and take the full force of the climber when they’ve weighted the rope. This also means that the Smart 2.0 will have a harder catch, as it’s more quickly and fully blocking the rope. To ensure a soft fall, the expectation is that you’ll be belaying with your body (such as moving towards the wall during a fall).

The rope range stays the same at 8.7-10.5 mm. And we’re already seeing reports that confirm the Smart 2.0 works great (smoothly) with fat gym ropes.

This video (the same video in the header of this post) shows Mammut’s Product Climbing Manager explaining all the features and uses of the new Smart 2.0:

If you can’t see the embedded video, you can visit: https://youtu.be/852RH1JHFGM

Smart HMS – complimentary carabiner

For the best performance and handling Mammut recommends their new Smart HMS carabiner. This carabiner has a completely round stock where the carabiner enters the Smart 2.0 device, which will ensure ideal braking functionality. Note: This is an update to the previous Crag Smart HMS, that did not have a completely round stock. 

Also worth noting is that the Smart HMS carabiner is specially designed for use with the Mammut Smart 2.0 and it is not meant for using with tube-style belay devices like the Black Diamond ATC-series, Petzl Reverso, or Edelrid Mega Jul. The safety gate prevents proper usage with regular tubers, as Mammut explains in their instructions.

If you don’t want to buy the Smart HMS, or can’t find it, the next best bet is to find an HMS-shaped carabiner with a completely round stock at the top. The diameter of these stock changes, so the results will vary slightly from the “most ideal” but the big thing to remember is round stock. I-beam/H-beam carabiners that have cuts in the side, or a less-rounded top will be even less suited for the perfect catch. Small D-shaped carabiners are not recommended as they may prevent the device from blocking the rope correctly–you’ll likely notice slippage as the device struggles to stop the rope.

Smarter – an add-on accessory

As a compliment to the Smart 2.0, Mammut is offering a brake assist accessory called the Smarter. This add-on component ($12.95) prevents the belayer from putting the 2 rope strands in parallel while belaying. The Smarter accessory is suggested for newer belayers that might not know the dangers of having the ropes parallel (the semi-auto-locking device will not lock), or somebody who is looking for an added safety check while belaying.

The Smarter is clipped on to the Smart 2.0 after the rope is threaded through the device. It does not impact the belaying/handling in any way, other than preventing the rope strands from becoming completely parallel (see the gif below).

There is a also small loop on the Smarter so you can clip it to your harness while not in use. It’s also only 8 grams, so it will have minimal effect on the overall weight of your kit.

This is an excerpt of the full Mammut Smart 2.0 video seen at: https://youtu.be/852RH1JHFGM

Smart 2.0 Alpine

This is not a thing. At least not yet. Although it seems like Mammut could just repeat the Smart 2.0 tube twice to create a Smart 2.0 Alpine, that isn’t the case. (You can hear Mammut’s Climbing Product Manager talk about the development challenges of the original Smart Alpine device at 6:04 of this Smart Alpine belay device video.)

Rest assured, Mammut knows you’re looking for a Smart 2.0 Alpine version. For Mammut’s sake, it’s worth noting that the original Smart came out in 2009 and the Smart Alpine arrived in 2011.

Speculation: At the absolute earliest, we’d see a prototype at the Outdoor show in Germany in June 2017, and then a fully featured version could come out in 2019. Although I’m willing to be pleasantly surprised, I don’t have my hopes up about this idea and think that 2020 is more likely.

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