jay.halford's Go Anywhere Do Anything Climbing Rack

My rack is an odd assortment of old and new, conventional and unconventional. It’s inspired by my mixed bag of climbing mentors, secondhand gear, and super sales. My climbing has been influence by old school trad climbers, grade pushing sport climbers, and burly wild man boulderers. My gear reflects this variety which gives me just enough tools to pursue all of my varied interests on rock, ice, and snow.

Trad Rack

I was very fortunate early in my climbing life to be gifted an old rack from a family friend who climbed a lot in the 80’s and 90’s. The rack was a full single rack made up of Metolius Mastercams and TCU’s, a single set of nuts and stoppers, a single set of Black Diamond Hexes, and a single set of CAMP Tricams. I’ve since taken the hexes and Tricams out of my rotation (minus the Pink Tricam, you ever know when you might need it).

My one rule upon receiving the rack was that I had to get the cams re-slung before I could use them. I was anxious to put the rack to use so I sent the rack in to Metolius right away to be repaired for a small fee. When the cams returned in the mail they looked brand new: shiny lobes, new trigger wires, spiffy new slings. That was when I became a lifetime Metolius customer.

Since that time I’ve accumulated the better part of a double rack of Mastercams and TCU’s including several of the newest iteration of Ultralight Mastercams. Metolius’ product quality, price point, and customer service ensure that I will always have their cams on my rack.

Additionally I have a Black Diamond #4 and #5 C4 Camelot which are crucial for the array of wide cracks here in Wyoming. My collection of nuts and stoppers grows and shrinks each season from finding booty in the alpine or leaving them on a bail anchor. They are always a part of my rack whether I’m cragging or multi pitch climbing.

Harnesses

My primary harness is the Mammut Ophir 3 for everything from sport climbing to the alpine; it’s comfortable and form fitting with large, accessible gear loops. For long days or route development I have the Black Diamond Big Gun which is burly, supportive and comfortable when you’re hanging for an extended period of time.

My wife (Jackie) has worn Edelrid harnesses in the past because of the best fit but recently upgraded to the Black Diamond Solution harness for her all around harness; the gear loops are better oriented for her and the harness itself is lighter and less bulky.

Draws, runners, and Rope Solo Gear

My alpine draws consist of a variety of carabiners with dyneema runners, they are not the lightest and sleekest but they do just fine for anything I’m doing. My quickdraws are Black Diamond Hoodwires, they are relatively light and clip well.

I used to top rope solo rock and ice quite a bit. The equipment has been neglected lately, but the setup consists of a Wren Soloist, Petzl Jumars, and a Petzl Mini Traction.

*Editors Note: If you’re looking for some tips about rope soloing, Blake Herrington has a great article that’ll go over the sequence.

Ice Climbing Gear

Most of my ice climbing setup came from my time working at a used gear consignment store in Colorado *shoutout to Boulder Sports Recycler.* Both Jackie and I have Koflach double plastic mountain boots. They are not as light and streamlined as modern boots but they are warm, comfortable, and technical enough for anything we do.

Our ice tools are the Cassin All Mountain (a newer version is now available) and an old pair of Trango Captain Hooks (no longer made). The Captain Hooks are a good all around tool while the Cassin All Mountains are the better option for steeper/overhanging ice or mixed climbing. I also have a heavier, older, Black Diamond mountaineering axe (most similar to the Raven, sold today) that comes in handy for early season alpine approaches and descents. My crampons are the Black Diamond Cyborg Pro, they have front and rear bails for a rigid fit on my boots and adjustable front points.

Rock Shoes

The shoe lineup continually changes whether fueled by curiosity about new styles or simply finding a good sale. My current shoes are:

• La Sportiva Skwama – great for bouldering and steep sport climbing — these are now my all time favorite rock shoes
• Butora Acro – all around sport climbing
• 5.10 Quantum – all around technical shoe, great for slab
• La Sportiva TC Pro – trad and alpine shoe

Jackie’s Shoes:

• 5.10 Moccasym– trad/all around
• La Sportiva Miura – she has 2 pair, one Velcro and on lace up, great for all around sport climbing
• La Sportiva Solution – technical sport climbing and bouldering

Ropes

Currently in my rope bag I have…

• 60m 9.8mm Sterlin Velocity Sharma Edition – my daily rope
• 30m 10.1mm Sterling Slim Gym – used for rope solo and simul climbing
• 70m 9.2mm Edelrid Topaz – our main alpine rope
• 70m 9.9mm Maxim Access Fund special – our backup or second rope

I don’t necessarily have brand loyalty to any one rope at this time but I tend to like Sterling and Maxim for their durability and price point.

Helmets

We both have Black Diamond Vector helmets. It is the perfect do-all helmet for alpine, ice, and even backcountry skiing. They are light, breathable, and comfortable.

My gear closet, AKA commandeered garage

Gear stashes are always growing and changing each season, who knows what I’ll have in my arsenal in a few years. In the mean time I’ve got everything I need to get out and climb what I want to climb, any season. We just bought our house last winter so the gear organization is still underway, but we are getting there!

Any gear questions? Ask in the comments!