WeighMyRack went to the 2015 Outdoor Retailer summer show and every climbing gear manufacturer and brand to report back all the new climbing gear represented at the show. In addition to looking at all the new climbing hardware we also got the lowdown on climbing shoes (a first!). Without further adieu, the newest climbing gear coming to market in 2016:
Arc’teryx
The Acrux AR GTX is a 5,000 meter mountaineering boot designed to be one of the lightest and most durable low volume double boots on the market. It has a removable Gore-Tex liner, a 4mm inner shell and a laminated waterproof gaiter that promises to be puncture resistant, along with a large watertight zipper. Even with a beefy Vibram sole, the weight is surprisingly low at 940 g (1,880 grams per pair, US size 9), which is similar to many single boot weights. Feb, 2016, $750
The Arakys (Uh-rack-ease) crag shoe is designed to go easily from the crag, to the bar, to work, and back to the crag. They have a fold-down heel that makes it fast and easy to switch between projects at the crag or boulder field. The closure system gets set once, and then it’s a quick and easy on/off clip into the future. 270 grams per shoe for US size 9. Feb, 2016, $150.
Want more shoe details? Hiking Finland’s blogpost dives further into the Acrux and Arakys.
Arc’teryx also updated their popular minimalist Cierzo (See-air-zo) alpine pack to increase durability by moving to a tougher ripstop fabric on the sides, adding padding on the straps, and creating a compression cord system with almost limitless configuration options. Due to the additional features, the 28 L pack increased slightly in weight to 550 grams. Feb, 2016, $119.
Asana
Asana is putting out new colors for the PRism pads released last year. Instead of thinking of the colors as red, green, blue, and black, Jamey (Asana founder) says his inspiration came from fire, earth, water, and stone. $175 – $215 depending on size.
Beal
Beal’s Active Line (aka: no dry treatment) ropes feature completely new designs for 2016: 10.2 mm Antidote, 10.0 mm Virus, 9.8 mm Karma, 9.5 mm Zenith (the only non-treated rope below 60 g/m) and the Legend 8.3 mm, rated as a twin/half rope. Depending on length the prices range from $119 – 199.95.
The Air Force 1 (single rope, 8.5 – 10.5 mm) and Air Force 2 (double rope, 7.3 mm+) are belay devices constructed to be particularly rope friendly by adding a groove on the non-brake side of the device to reduce abrasion of the rope. Beal claims they’ll be the most rope-friendly belay devices on the market, which is also why they were enticed to make them. Air Force 1: $17.95, Air Force 2: $21.95
The Amazon/Addict (female/male) harnesses – They both have double buckles, adjustable leg loops, and they incorporate a non-laminated version of Beal’s Web Core technology, allowing a lower price than their laminated counterparts. A kids version, the Rookie, will also be available in 2016. Addict/Amazon: $59.95, Rookie: $49.95
The Phantom harness is a fixed leg loop, single buckle, sport climbing rig. It has a perforated Web Core swami and leg loops for increased breathability. $69.95
Black Diamond
One of the most talked about items at the show was Black Diamonds Ultralight C4’s. Internally referred to as the Alpine C4’s, you’ll see an average of a 25% reduction in weight compared to the regular C4’s (which are not going away, or changing). Most of the weight decrease is due to the replacement of the steel cables with Dyneema in the stem. These Ultralight C4’s will have the same camming range and outer lobe profile as the regular C4’s, along with larger cut-outs on the lobes–which will make them slightly less durable and rated 2kN less for falls. Engineering the dyneema insides will make them slightly more expensive but the good news is the UV protected Dyneema stem (not replaceable) is expected to last as long as the steel version–neither of which are tolerant to excessive abrasion (like if you wear through the outer stem covering). Sizes .4 – 4, January 2016, $89.95 – $129.95
The Solution harness features “fusion comfort,” a lamination process with 3 structural bands that distribute the load on the waist and leg loops. The waist belt is wide on the sides and narrower on the back. The harness comes with wide legs and is designed for mid-range sport/trad climbing as it has with fixed leg loops and speed buckles on the waist. The female version has a slightly larger rise. The Solution replaces the Flight and Siren harness for 2016. $69.95
In 2016 BD’s entire helmet, belay device, carabiner and quickdraw lines will have completely revamped colors. Most notably: black carabiners, some with black wire gates. You’ll also notice updated dog-bones widths on each quickdraw to be more in-line with their intended use (ex: Positron dog-bone is now beefy). You’ll see green, blue, purple, red, and yellow will be the go-to colors along with black to make the colors pop. Prices are unchanged.
Also worth noting: all BD climbing hardware is now (as of this writing, in Aug. 2015) made, assembled, and anodized in Salt Lake City.
Boreal
The Mutant climbing shoe feels like it was “molded with your foot in mind.” The heel cup suctions on and eliminates gaps and dead space for impeccable fit and performance. The shoe was designed for intermediate climbers looking to bump it up or a high-end climber that wants a slipper with the adjustability of 1 velcro closure. The toe-cap looks weird because it’s a texturized rubber for solid toe scumming. You can expect performance and comfort combined in a single package. Spring 2016, $139
Butora
A new iteration of the Acro climbing shoe is coming with a narrower fit for both the high and low volume models (models based on volume vs gender stereotypes). Butora also removed the heel padding allowing for a more sensitive feel. Fully lined leather, 3-D injection ABS midsole to keep the downturned shape and a massive perforated rubber toe-patch for toe-hooks. The Acro also incorporates open cell foam padding on the tongue for comfort. Made for bouldering and steep sport climbing; think 5.12 and up. Same price as the previous model, coming out in October 2015, at $154.
CAMP
The Flash harness is a high-end, light weight sport climbing harness with 4 gear loops. The waist belt is actually one long piece of webbing, that is split for a more comfortable fit. The front two loops are molded and the back two are traditionally shaped. Super light at 236 grams, it’s virtually the lightest sport climbing specific harness. Many will be tempted to use it in the alpine, and you can, although that wasn’t it’s design goal. Sizes XS, S, M, L, XL. $79.95
See the lightest harnesses available today at
WeighMyRack.com/harness
The Titan, a new hardshell helmet was designed to be robust for when you need extra durability. The interior sports a suspended mesh cradle to increase breathability and accommodate a large range of head shapes. The cradle is removable, washable, and replaceable. The rear dial adjustment folds up and hides in the helmet for storage. Two sizes cover the full spectrum. $54.95.
The totally new Oval XL carabiner (pictured, right), is bigger, 1 gram lighter and 4kN stronger than their current oval offering (left). If you get super technical it’s not really a “true” oval in that the shape has just a hint of D to shift forces to the spine to increase strength but it’ll still act like an oval and hold double nut sets with ease. Solid gate: $11.95. Non-locking and Locking options vary, $14.95 – $24.95.
Climb X
Rave: One piece last for added support for beginning climbers with a padded ankle cuff for comfort- $69
Raptor: Two piece last that for a little more flex. Great for an intermediate climber and an all-around shoe -$79
Rock-It: 3-piece very flexible last for sensitivity, molded heel cup, asymmetric and downturned with a hooked toe for overhangs and aggressive boulders – $99
E-motion: Slingshot rand and pre-tensioned last rubber so they stay downturned and aggressive. Rubber toe-cap make toe-hooking easier. $109
DMM
The Dragon cam is getting a lobe overhaul. The teeth no longer carry any anodization and they also have many additional groves (“TripleGrip”) that will help increase bite in the smoothest and slipperiest of rock. DMM also increased the tolerances significantly because they’re obsessed with manufacturing details (more info in our upcoming video). They also increased the strength with an updated extendable sling; the strength will now be the same whether the sling is extended or not. February, 2016. $69.95 – $84.95
The Vault carabiner was originally developed for arborists but ice climbers can use them to hold ice screws and tools. The Vault mounts semi-permanently around the swami of your harness. The price tag is high but will have instant appeal for anybody who has ever lost gear due to their plastic ice clipper. Two versions available, wire gate and a twist lock. Early 2016, Wire $44.95, Locking, $59.95
Edelrid
Boa Eco 9.8 mm rope (called the Parrot in Europe) is made from leftover bobbins of fiber that are smaller than the 1000m+ lengths of rope Edelrid normally creates. Because these are leftover bobbins from various ropes, all of the ropes have completely unique pattners. Edelrid is now saving perfectly good thread from the recycling bin. Note: Although it may seem like Edelrid is making more money by turning these leftover threads into ropes, it actually takes significantly more manual work to move the leftover bobbins and make smaller batches of rope (60 m – 200 m lengths) so the price is comparable to Edelrid’s other Thermo-treated ropes: 60m is $149.95 and 70m is $169.95.
Huascaran (wa-skuh-ron) harness – the world’s first blue sign certified climbing harness – all the harness fabric and the entire production process is blue sign certified. The harness itself is a lightweight ski-mountaineering and alpine harness with wide leg loops and a double-band waist. The two bands maintain their position and separation thanks to stiff fabric that spans between them. The goal was to create a super comfy harness for alpine adventures and at 220 grams it is still very light and packs down very small. Bonus: You can easily put the harness on without removing skis or needing to step through the waist with crampons on. Spring 2016, $59.95
The Zack harness is an entry-level piece with stripped down features aimed to create a comfortable harness at a very competitive price. The main feature of the Zack harness is that the load bearing webbing freely floats through the waist-belt so it’s easy to dial in the perfect fit over a very large range of sizes. The all-aluminum buckles will increase durability versus plastic buckles and super strong and durable gear loops increase safety. Spring 2016, $49.95
The Finn Light is a very small laminated kids harness that can be worn as soon as the waist belt fits around the kiddo (and it never hurts to double check the size chart). There is no weight maximum. There are also extra features to help the child can put on the harness on correctly by themselves, like the leg loops are banded together to ensure they won’t tangle and the easy glide buckles are kid adjustable. The Finn Light also takes into consideration the size proportions of children and isn’t just a “shrunk” version of an adult harness. Spring 2016, $42.95.
We wrote about the Jul 2 last year, but it has been totally redesigned to increase the braking strength: instead of a mild brake assist it is now designed to completely lock-off the rope. The Jul 2 is made out of durable stainless steel made for sport climbing, top-roping, and single pitch climbing. It’s designed to for use with fat and fuzzy ropes but will work with any rope from 8.9 – 11 mm. Spring 2016, $29.95
Edelweiss
New in the Spirit range: Elite 7.8, Performance 9.2, Power 10.0, Nexus 9.6. All of the Spirit line ropes have UniCore technology that bonds the sheath to the core. They’re also EverDry treated, which means the sheath is dry treated but the core is not. The Nexus 9.6 and Power 10.0 incorporate a spiral core that helps keep the rope nice and round for its entire life. Prices all over the board depending on size, but the highest is the 9.2 Performance Unicore, Sheath and core treatment 90 meters, 2 ropes, for $389.95.
The Dart is an all-around harness with 4 buckles for maximum adjustability. Web Core technology means it has continuous laser-cut flat webbing that adds strength and comfort and keeps the harness light and thin. Since the materials are not laminated together (they’re sewn), it can come at an aggressive price of $49.95 compared to the laminated harnesses with Web Core technology.
Evolv
A new release, is the Evolv Agro (unisex) climbing shoe. It’s an aptly named super aggressive, very downturned, flexible and soft shoe for maximum sensitivity. Spring/Summer 2016.
The Shaman is also getting an update. Think everything the old Shaman was but with improvements: lots of flex in the mid sole for sensitivity while maintaining powerful edging with a very firm forefoot. The Shaman also gets an increased slope the front of the toe box and more trax rubber on the toe-cap. Spring/Summer 2016.
Also new (and not pictured) is the Raptor (men’s) and Raven (women’s). The focus here will be on entry-level comfort and go for $99.
Five Ten
The Stonemaster is a unisex entry-level shoe, and the first 5.10 shoe to come out under $100. It’ll have a one piece last to provide support for new climbers. To achieve the sub-hundy price this shoe is constructed offshore although the rubber is still made here in the USA. $99
The Quantum started when the the famous Alex and Thomas Huber brothers approached 5.10 to design a shoe they felt was missing. The biggest difference between the Quantum and other shoes is that it has a wider toe box in addition to its downturned shape. It also includes barrel lacing for faster adjustability. The intention was to have a shoe with maximum performance for top-end climbing that could be worn all day long.
Grivel
The twin-gate carabiner series is expanding to the Clepsydra K10G, a belay carabiner with a keeper gate that holds your belay loop to prevent cross-loading. You’ll notice a nice large rope-friendly top basket and a flat bottom basket to fit your belay loop. It’s 22KN and 89 grams available in Europe now, and getting ready for the US market any minute now. $24.95
The Captive is a non-locking carabiner similar in looks to the Clepsydra belay carabiner. It will be sold on a draw that eliminates accidental weighting of the nose and accidental unclipping due to a rotating carabiner. The design ensures it will always be orientated correctly. It will come in two quickdraw lengths with a wide dogbone. 13cm: $16.95 18cm: $17.95
Grivel has also created a stand-alone back-support accessory called the Shield that can fit onto virtually every climbing harness. It reduces back pain and will help anybody who spends a significant amount of time hanging in a harness—big wallers, bolters, and route-setters should take particular note. $35 sold separately, and 50% less when you buy it as a Grivel harness combo.
La Sportiva
The Skwama is a high-end, modern slipper with a single velcro closure and large rubber toe-pad. The P3 rand keeps your foot aggressively downturned and provides torsional rigidity. The interesting new split outsole imitates a mountain goat hoof giving the shoe more flex in the forefoot for maximum sensitivity. Summer 2016, $140
The Otaki comes in a men’s (blue) and a narrower women’s (green) version. The men’s version features Vibram XS Edge for maximum resistance to deformation on small edges for the heavier climber. The women’s version has XS Grip which maximizes stickiness and traction for lighter climbers since they don’t need as stiff of an edge to stay on. The Otaki offers a mid-stiff midsole with a precise toe, two velcro straps, and the P3 band to keep it downturned. The new S-heel adds an insert that connects the heel cup to the P3 rand to increase tension while heel hooking. Summer 2016, $175
The Finale will replace one of La Sportiva’s top selling shoes, the Nago. Designed to provide all-day comfort while bouldering, sport, and trad climbing, on a stiff, flat last. This is a hand-built Italian shoe with Vibram XS Edge rubber and unlined leather upper to conform to a wide variety of feet. May 2016, $99
Mad Rock
The Lifeguard belay device will be the the smallest, lightest, and most affordable mechanical brake assist belay device on the market. It boasts an all-metal construction and it’ll handle ropes from 8.9 – 11 mm. The only difference between the final version and the prototype above are that some of the rivets will be slightly different. It will be out December 1st, just in time to get on your Christmas list. $89
The Angler quickdraw has a high-end solid gate carabiner on top of a beefy draw. But the interesting part is the rope side of the quickdraw: the bottom wiregate ‘biner has a very aggressively angled nose for easy clipping. This is also why Mad Rock added a deflector fin above the gate – to move the rope away from the gate to stop an accidental unclip (during a fall / if accidentally back-clipped). There is also a thumb ledge on the spine to improve handling. Spring 2016. Price TBD.
Mammut
The Wall Rider is made of expanded polypropylene foam (not polystyrene like most helmets) which is has better rebound properties and is less prone to denting. To avoid penetration of the foam they’ve added a plastic nylon shell. The Wall Rider will be a light-weight and durable option that is priced competitively for it’s weight range. It’ll come out just under 200 grams. $99.95
See the lightest helmets currently available at:
WeighMyRack.com/helmet
Mammut also came out with a chalk bag called the Multi-pitch that has enough room to hold a wind jacket, snacks, camera and other small goodies. Every seasoned climber will tell you of the time they wished they had brought x,y,z small item but left it behind because they didn’t want to climb with a pack – well now you can have that cake and eat it too. Spring 2016, $39.95
The Wall Lite carabiner weighs 23 grams and is almost identical in size to the 27 gram Wall carabiner. The difference is the Wall Lite has more advanced hot forging to move metal where it counts. This will be available in a rack pack and also come in a few different quickdraw configurations. Feb 2016, price TBD.
Mammut also come out with a personal anchor system, the anchor chain, that incorporates multiple large and small dyneema loops.
Maxim (by New England Ropes)
The 9.1 mm Airliner is a tried and true rope used by lots of climbing teams and athletes, but it is now coming in a double-dry bi-pattern option for 2016. 60, 70, 80 meter lengths.
Misty Mountain
Harnesses, including Misty’s best-selling Cadillac harness, received color updates and more importantly they got some behind-the-scenes, in-house process improvements that will equate to faster delivery times.
Organic
Organic has adopted the Spot pad from Pusher/Revolution/Cordless; in addition to buying the rights for the pad/pack, Organic has put their own twist on it. They have increased the zipper pocket on the front flap, incorporated their own buckles, and are now offering the massive assortment of colors that Organic is known for. Not only is the pad assembled entirely in the US, all of the materials and foam are all US sourced, too. Great for sport and trad climbing as a crag bag to provide a cush launch pad, and easily move gear to your next line with the two beefy side-handles and rope tie-in points. $150.
Petzl
The big news for Petzl is their crampon system is going modular. In the near future you’ll be able to buy any of the toe-plates and heel plates separately in addition to any of the complete crampons. The linkage bar is also improved to cover all sizes that previously required two different (small/large) linkage bars. The new anti-ball plates will be dual-density so they’ll stay rigid against the crampon and also have a rebounding feature to throw off the nasty afternoon glop.
Petzl also made updates to some other gear coming out in January 2016:
- Modified the Elia to increase the height of the ponytail cutout along with a new webbing adjustment to fit a larger variety of noggins.
- Reduced the weight of the AM’D and William carabiners with a hot-forged I-beam construction.
- Added more pockets and padding to their small multi-pitch daypack, the Bug.
Red Chili
The Atomyc (orange) combines the comfort of a slipper with the addition of a velcro closure. The rand comes further towards the toe than most shoes with the idea that this will keep the downturned shape throughout its lifespan without distorting the shoe in other areas. Aggressive downturn with a neutral (minor asymmetry) last. The toe-patch rubber will be an extension of the toe rand to ensure comfort and durability. $149
The Amp (blue) is a slipper designed to hold your heel well. The toe-patch spreads pressure to allow for secure hooking. Red Chili took great care to design the elastic tongue area to make this slipper easier to get on and off while providing a secure performance-oriented fit. It has moderate downturn and an asymmetric last. $129
Roca Ropes
The entire endurance line of Roca Ropes will incorporate a 1 over 1 braiding pattern that makes the ropes incredibly durable. When we went to the Fixe/Roca booth we were given a demonstration of a knife running over and over the rope with no discernible impact on the sheath AND Kevin had been giving this demonstration with the same rope the entire show.
Scarpa
The Drago is a modern slipper with a single velcro closure. It has a huge connected rubber toe cap that comes up and over the dorsal portion of the foot for compression moves and toe-scumming. Heinz Mariacher designed it as a show piece of what a modern climbing shoe could be regardless of price or marketability, thus the $200 price. Originally Scarpa planned a limited release of the Drago with only 1,000 pairs globally so we’ll see if it hits the US market, as all 1,000 pairs sold out at the European show a few weeks prior to the US show. July 2016, $200.
The Vapor Lace incorporates an upper that is made from is a single piece of material for a super secure and precise fit. A stiffer version of the popular Vapor V (velcro), it will certainly be ideal on longer trad and sport routes requiring more edging. $159
The Helix is a classic Scarpa shoe with improved technical specs and updated cosmetics. The lacing now goes further down to the toe for more precise fit, the leather tongue has been replaced with a cushioned tongue for more comfort, and the heel is less bulky than the previous version. The new Helix sole also receives an upgrade to Vibram XS Edge rubber. Price remains the same at $99.99.
The Origin is a shoe that has a rich luxurious feel and is suited for new climbers without screaming “NEWBIE.” You can get comfort and all-day performance with this affordable entry into handmade Italian climbing shoes. The Origin looks like a $120 shoe but you can get ’em Spring, 2016 for $89.99.
So Ill
Shoe peep show. No details yet. You’ll have to wait for their Kickstarter campaign!
Tenaya/Trango
Iati (Eye-ought-ee) – “A more supportive Oasi” with a super sticky toe cap and Vibram XS Grip sole. One way to think of the new Iati is as the offspring of the Tarifa and Oasi. With no break-in period (signature Tenaya feature), hardly any stretch, aggressive downturn, and an easily adjustable velcro closure to optimize fit for both high/low volume feet. Unlike the Oasi or Tarifa, the Iati also incorporates natural leather in critical areas to increase comfort, but it’s still backed with rubber so the stretch is minimal. $170
Trango is adding the Rock Prodigy Forge climbing board for intermediate to advanced training. (The original Rock Prodigy hangboard is great for beginner – advanced). The holds are different than the original Rock Prodigy so between the two boards there are 6 different pinch options. The Forge also offers a safer way to practice hard crimps. The pockets have an 8 degree draft to disperse the load on your fingers. Harder slopers and a more subtle, consistent texture round out this beast of training potential. $119.95
Trango also updated their Crag Pack to include a smaller size for shorter climbers, same $99 price.
Wild Country
Wild Country has improved the usability of the New Friends. These dual-axel puppies are now color coordinated to match what is seen as the industry standard (Camalot colors). The size range will also match BD C4’s. The new Friends have hollow axles to decrease weight and actually increase strength. The hot-forged lobes are also wider and less prone to walking with the contact surface removed of anodizing for additional bite. Extendable slings allow for a lighter rack and shorter triggers will be nice for smaller hands and add less fatigue when placing. Sizes .5 – 4 are $64.95 – $89.95 (larger/smaller sizes not available, yet).
The Mission harness will come in a men’s and women’s version. The most interesting part is a “Dura-Weave” mesh construction that actually looks like a basket weave. Wild Country is excited about this because it means the harness will stretch with your body as the weave moves in any direction. The fabric is also highly wear resistant. It’s equipped with 5 gear loops along with ice clipper slots and a haul loop. Men’s M is 428 grams, Women’s S (the middle size) is 419 grams. $94.95
The Syncro harness incorporates the same Dura-Weave fabric construction as the Mission harness (above) but incorporates 7 gear loops, wider waist and leg loops, and 4 buckles for perfect fit. This is bound to be ideal for big walls, guiding, and long days of climbing/hanging. It only comes in one unisex version. $109.95
We didn’t actually see the Ascent Lite Belay carabiner in person, but we have played with the Ascent Lite whose body is fantastically shaped with a rounded rope end and a squared bottom to fit your belay loop perfectly. The curved back fits well in all hand sizes and the thimble is also easier to hold and twist than most knurled screw gates. $21.95
Want more gear news?
Some of our favorite gear resources for new gear coverage:
The Alpine Start – These Canadians do one of the best show overviews as they cover climbing clothes, hardware, backpacks, and footwear.
Hiking Finland – new gear from the Outdoor Friedrichshafen show in Germany.
BMC – shows off gear from the German show including technical gear, and they have a bunch of videos.
Gear Coop – shoes, packs, socks, water bottles, climbing gear, they cover a plethora of categories!
Gear Caster – Amy puts out posts with enviable speed, and covers everything outdoor related.
Gear Institute – Already has awards out for gear coming next year, see what attracted their eye.
Splitter Choss – Read another opinion of the gear covered above and see some gear we skipped over like approach shoes and packs.
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Thanks for the shout-out.
And great overview of the rock stuff; I tend to miss things not associated with snow and ice!
Thanks for the overview and the stickers (just received them). Great work!
[…] Want more than shoes? Check out our post detailing all the 2016 climbing goods. […]